Italian Edits: La Colazione

There’s no way around it: Italians like it short and sweet. No matter whether consumed at the kitchen table or propped up against the counter of a local bar, the quintessential Italian breakfast consists of nothing more than a quick snack laden with sugar and caffeine. Snack, I say, as a meal it is not – neither in terms of quantities nor in terms of the amount of time that is dedicated to it. And yet, despite all odds, the kick it provides is such that it manages to get people through the first half of the day without blinking. 

Breakfast is one of the most puzzling aspects of the food culture of the belpaese. For being a country that devotes such energy and attention to food, many are surprised to find just how plain the colazione can be. The notable lack of savoury option and the almost non-existence of a cooked breakfast are only two of the things that throw visitors off. The inconspicuous size of what’s consumed – in most cases, a pastry or a handful of biscuits – and the wolfing-down action at the bar’s counter follow closely. 

And yet, for as minute and swift as it may be, breakfast in Italy remains a ritual. And like any rituals, it has its rules, customs and refrains. Food aside, which may vary, coffee is what’s really at the core of the matter. Italians take much pride in their coffee-drinking tradition, and put great care when it comes to brewing their own. Breakfast is no exception: for most, the day can’t start without un buon caffé, and in fact, many end up having multiple cups throughout their morning, at home and out. 

In an attempt to distill the essence of the true Italian breakfast into a short set of standards, I have collected a sample of typical morning rituals, depending on whether breakfast takes place at home or at the bar. Here they are. 

At Home

For an Italian, there’s nothing quite as enticing and comforting as the sound of the moka gurgling and sputtering on the stove. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee wafting from the kitchen down the hallway and into the bedroom is enough to get people out of bed – and works better than any alarm clock you’ll ever own. 

The moka (or stovetop percolator) is an essential piece of equipment in any Italian kitchen, and a common sight at the breakfast table. The style of coffee that the moka produces is what’s known as caffé all’italiana: a strong brew similar to an espresso, deep and aromatic, to be sipped in small amounts, in a small cup. That said, many take their morning (and only their morning) coffee milky, either in equal proportions of milk and coffee (caffelatte), or else using coffee to “stain” a bowl of milk (latte macchiato). 

Food wise, options are potentially infinite but tend to remain on the sweet side of the spectrum. One of the most classic – and perhaps a tad vintage – Italian breakfast foods is ciambellone: a plain, dense, homemade cake with a hole in the middle, served in slices, and just made to be dunked. Crostata di marmellata (jam tart) follows shortly; as does torta di mele (apple cake), a slice of which can make everybody at peace with the world on the gloomiest of Monday mornings. 

Beyond cakes, rusks smeared with jam remain a popular choice, and one that puzzles the rest of the world. Biscuits – normally the store-bought kind – are a big hit, too. And while the thought of eating biscuits upon rising seems over-indulgent to most, it’s worth remembering that these are generally on the dry, not-too-sweet, not-too-buttery side, thus being – for Italian standards, at least – a perfectly acceptable morning pick-me-up. 

Al Bar

Think: the fragrance of a freshly baked, flakey, golden pastry, and of freshly ground coffee beans. Imagine the hissing of the espresso machine, the chatter of people elbowing for space, the buzz and bustle of the patrons taking turns at the counter, the tinkling of spoons on cappuccino cups. Envisage the barista moving swiftly behind the bar, taking orders by the dozen, and dishing out plates and cups at the speed of sound just to get things flowing. And there you have it: a picture of the classic Italian bar during the morning rush hour. 

In Italy, bars –what the rest of the world would call cafés –are nothing short of a national institution. Changing their function depending on the time of the day, in the morning they resemble a production line of endless cups of coffees. “Un caffé” is what most people ask for: a single shot of espresso. Some want it macchiato. Drowsy-eyed ones might ask for a doppio (two shots), while picky ones might want a macchiatone (a larger version of a macchiato), served in a large cup. 

Above all, however, cappuccino towers as the morning drink of choice. Creamy and a tad foamy, small enough to be gulped down at the counter while also large enough to feel substantial, it is an essential part of the sacred Italian breakfast diptych that is cornetto and cappuccino. In short, one can hardly go without the other – and this is only part of the reason why ordering cappuccino after a meal is a big no-no. 

Cornetto – a horn-shaped flakey pastry similar to croissant – is the morning food item par excellence. In most bars you’ll find a declination of the plain, empty version featuring a variety of fillings: jam, custard, cream, chocolate, honey & cereals, you name it. Regional variations might also occur (think sfogliatelle in Naples or maritozzi in Rome), plus, if lucky, a choice of fried doughnuts (ciambelle or bomboloni). And if you don’t feel like something sweet, you can always ask for un toast (a ham and cheese toastie), but expect to be pushed at the back of the line as a punishment for the extra labour. You’ve been warned.